Thursday 5 July 2012

Cambodia to Mumbia......


Leaving NHCC, Cambodia

We had such a wonderful time at the New Hope for Cambodian Children (NHCC) village. Even though the accommodation was basic, it was clean and we really got into the routine of village life. 

 Leaving was much harder than any of us thought it would be. We were given so many hand drawn and made pictures, cards and gifts. The children were so generous with what little they had and made us feel so welcome and part of the family.

It was the first time NHCC have had a family with children visit and stay for such a period of time. John and Kathy, the founders, were so happy that it worked out well for us and so impressed by the girls and their ability to adapt to the climate, culture and lifestyle. They were also surprised by the girl’s willingness to work and work hard. Mark and I were so proud of our kids. 

So where was I? Oh yes, leaving… well after saying a few goodbyes Asia and I were in tears, some of the children began to cry and by the time we got in the van to leave we were all sobbing including Kathy and other volunteers we were leaving behind. We cried most of the way to the airport. Such a good emotion knowing you have connected with someone and have learnt so much from them and them from you. Also very hard to leave when you don’t know if and when you will see them again.


Mumbia for a few days….. SENSORY OVERLOAD!      

Rain, rain, monsoon rain…

Wow and I thought Bangkok was manic. It is nothing compared to here. Everywhere you look the streets are packed with people, cars, trucks, tuk-tuks, mopeds and cows, all going about their daily business in a frenzy but Asian paced chaos.

I have never felt so western, white, confused and disorientated. I love Asia and I love travelling. I enjoy meeting new people and exploring new places but this is the first place I have walked / driven around and craved a western coffee, snack and the comforts of home. Maybe it is because we have been away so long but I have a feeling that it is more to do with India!

Don’t get me wrong. I am enjoying our short time here. The food is fantastic closely followed by the tea. The people are smiley though I have not had the chance to meet any women. All the hostel staff, taxi drivers and most shop workers are men. The women seem to be hidden or busy with daily chores.

Today we drove for 5 hours to see the highlights of the city of Mumbai. Once again as in many of our stops around the world the British Empire has left its mark. The architecture, hospitals, law courts, schools and a weird structure called ‘The gate of India’ which was built to commemorate the visit of Majesties King George V and Queen Mary 1911. I am sure most of this is good but it is in such a contrast to the Indian people, their culture, colours, clothing and customs. Ho hum…may have to do some more reading on this one. Justin I may need your help!

We drove through old Bombay and saw many types of living accommodation. From high rises packed with tiny apartments to the creative build of the slums. All the housing had some things in common for me. Small, creative, resourceful and colourful washing hung from windows, roofs and balconies. The homes we saw today were built from all sorts of materials from bricks, metal sheets, wood, tarpaulin and textiles. Some had no doors and windows, some were open fronted, and some had small businesses running from their front door selling food, drinks, and all sorts of wares. This sort of housing is all over the city not just in the ‘slum’ areas.

So many natural resources are used and re used and it is very difficult to find anything processed, packaged or pre-made. Unlike all the other cities we have visited there are no corner shops owned by a chain, not many visual signs of large corporation dominating the market i.e. fuel stations, supermarkets, shopping malls. There is obviously a growing going on here. On almost every street there are new building being constructed for offices, shops and homes. Perhaps the big boys are about to move in!

During an unplanned stop to the loo – the local loo (thanks Asia!) we walked past some local shops/ stalls. If you want to eat chicken for your tea, you go to the ‘chicken shop’, choose your chicken which is still live and chirping about, the shop keeper will swiftly end its poor little life and then you can take it home as it is or pay a little more for them to butcher it. No packaging or refrigeration required! Very clever and very simple… I shall not be eating the chicken of course but I am sure there are some things we can learn here about resources and waste!

Along all the road sides i saw vans with ‘tempo service’ printed on them. After quizzing our driver I learnt that everything here that is thrown out as ‘rubbish’ is collected, sorted through and delivered to these amazing scrap / recycling shops. Alongside the slums there are places you can pick up scrap everything and the place is crawling with people working, sorting and buying ‘scrap’. The street we saw was very organized, tidy and clearly well run. If you can look beyond the general grime of the city this place is resourceful.

Back to the toilet stop…. We were only 1 hour into our journey when Asia needed to go. I knew the loo options would be basic but after paying 2 rupees each we stepped into a cubicle sectioned building, ladies one side and men the other. The odour was over powering and the squat toilets were…well…covered in poo! Asia and KJ managed to brace themselves and go…I was supervising ensuring nothing touched the ground, sides and door of the cubicle…. NEVER AGAIN! The lonely planet guide does say do not use local toilets…go before you leave your hostel and then use other hostel loos along the way. Now I know why..oh well all an experience.

So of course the food is delicious. My favourite so far is dahl curry. I can’t get enough of it. Asia has been venturing out trying curries with me. Most are far too spicy but she gives it a go every time. Yas is just so pleased to be somewhere where a vegetarian is the majority with lots of options everywhere you go.

Mark is reading a book called ‘Shantaram’ by Gregory David Roberts..its the true story of a guy who breaks out of prison in Australia and comes to Mumbia while on the run. Here is his description of Mumbia that we resound with…

‘How are you liking our Bombay?’ ‘I love it,’ I answered, and it was true. To my eyes, the city was beautiful. It was wild and exciting. Buildings that were British Raj-romantic stood side to side with modern, mirrored business towers. The haphazard slouch of neglected tenements crumbled into lavish displays of market vegetables and silks. I heard music from every shop and passing taxi. The colours were vibrant. The fragrances were dizzyingly delicious. And there were more smiles in the eyes on those crowded streets than in any other place I’d ever known.
Above all else, Bombay was free – exhilaratingly free. I saw that liberated, unconstrained spirit wherever I looked, and I found myself responding to it with the whole of my heart. Even the flare of shame I’d felt when I first saw the slums and the street beggars dissolved in the understanding that they were free, those men and women. No one drove the beggars from the streets. No one banished the slum dwellers. Painful as their lives were, they were free to live them in the same gardens and avenues as the rich and powerful. They were free. The city was free. I loved it.
Yet I was a little unnerved by the density of purposes, the carnival of needs and greeds, the sheer intensity of the pleading and the scheming on the street. I spoke none of the languages I heard. I knew nothing of the cultures there, clothes in robes and saris and turbans. It was as if I’d found myself in a performance of some extravagant, complex drama, and I didn’t have a script. But I smiled, and smiling was easy, no matter how strange and disorienting the street seemed to be.


So yes I am so pleased we came here to Mumbia. Such a privilege again to see first hand an amazing crazy city that is talked about so much that is full of colour, flavour and energy….. and all that in the pouring rain!

When chatting with the girls today about going home and finding language and ways to express our experience Asia Lee said this, ‘I wish they could jump into my heart and experience Asia and eat the food’!


Top things I am looking forward to returning home (apart from seeing family & friends)…
  1. Not cleaning my teeth with bottled water – such a faf!
  2. Having clean feet and moisturising my dry flip flop heels!
  3. Having clean clothes to wear that smell good and aren’t discolored or grimy!
  4. Wearing jeans & jumpers!
  5. Sleeping in my bed with my 100% Egyptian cotton sheet in my white nightie
  6. Not living out of my rucksack
  7. Being able to make a cup of tea when I want one
  8. Not sharing a room with my kids!!!! ;0)
  9. Drinking tap water
  10. eating SALAD!
  11. Feeling chilly!

That’s it from me for now, photos to follow… love Hayley x